remembering a world without boundaries
Sudan: November 21-December 3, 2008 and January 9-21, 2009 (Follows Ethiopia tour) An adventuresome journey of ancient historical sites and nomadic/tribal cultures; vast desert and the grand Nile River.
Once we leave Khartoum, accommodation is tents.Day 1 Arr Khartoum. (135 pm via Ethiopia) and transfer to Grand Holiday Villa, 5 star.
Late morning start to have time to rest. Appox 10:30 am pick up for visit of Ethnographic museum. Afternoon drive to Omdurman to visit Khalifa’s house, Mahdi Tomb and the old market. Lunch in a restaurant along the Nile. Next, visit the Abu Roaf market for making the boats. Evening attend Daraweesh ceremony - drums and chanting - at 5 pm near the Tomb of Shaikh Hamad Al-Niel led by the Shaikh (Hamad Elniel dervish dance). (Friday only). Return to hotel. Dinner and independent time, browse in Assuq Al-Arabi (market) if you wish.Day 2 Dongola
Long drive today by 4 wheel drive through Bayoda desert to Dongola. We’ll stop along the way to see the termi colonies. Lunch enroute in a local restaurant and time to browse the Debba village market. O/N camp in tents outskirts of Dongola.Day 3 Dongola-Tagab-Beyouda Desert-Soleb
In the morning visit the local ‘suq’ in Dongola, then drive through desert on the way to Sesibi (3 hr drive). Part of the road crosses the famous historical road – Darb El-Arbeen (the forty days road), the one for the camel caravans that start from west of the country heading to Egypt. See Tagab, where the Nile makes a turn at the Northern U-bend of the river and leaves a fascinating scene. Lunch enroute. In Sesibi, visit the temple of Ekhnaton and the relics of his city. Continue drive to Soleb (1 hr) and transfer to a Nubian local house. O/N and dinner at Nubian house .Day 4 Soleb, Sadenga, Sai Island
In the morning visit the temple of Amun in Soleb (including Jebel Dosha where there are very interesting inscriptions on its rocks), Ammenophese the third, see Dosha mountain, the inscriptions of Tohotmosis the 3rd. Drive to Sadenga Sites of pre – Napatan and Meroetic remains that go back in civilization to the dynasties in Egypt with their influence on the Sudan of the day, including visit to the temple of queen Teje, the wife of Ammenophese the third. Drive 45 min to Sai Island ferry, cross the Nile to Sai Island (about 30 min) .O/N in a Nubian house in Sai Island . This day is ideal for making contact with the local people.Day 5 Sai Island-Abri, -Tombus Village
In the morning visit the pharoanic and Ottoman castle, Kerma tombs, the relics of the cathedral. ?We cross the Nile to Abri and visit the local market. We have lunch in a restaurant, then drive 3 hrs to Tombus. On the way, there are many Nubian villages and the route passes along the Nile and then crosses into the desert mountains . We overnight in Nubian House in Tombus Village (the 3rd cateract is closed while a dam is being built).Day 6 Sebu, Messaida, Tombus, Kerma, Kawa.
See the rock drawings around the cataract mountain then drive to Sebu (25 min) and see the rock drawings there. Continue drive to Messaida (35 min) and visit the ancient church and the rock drawings there. This small well preserved, mud brick church is built against a massive boulder on which there are drawings of a large human figure with a spear, and two animal figures. While no good parallels of this drawing are known, a Meroetic date may be suggested.In Tombus, see the unfinished statue and the inscriptions of Tohotmosis the first, other inscriptions, Napatan and Pharoanic . Continue drive, 30 min, to the ancient city of Kerma, now a small town surrounded by groves of date, palm and guava. Lunch in a restaurant.
Recent archaeological research has shown that Kerma civilization is clearly the earliest on the Sub-Saharan African soil (2800-1500 B.C.). The site of this ancient city lies near the Nile and contains western Deffufa . It is a religious building of unfired brick raised somewhat above the rest of the structure. In spite of the lateral entrance and the internal staircase, the silhouette of a reconstructed mode of it, recalls an Egyptian Temple. Beyond the wall enclosing this religious center, lies the town itself with its houses built of unfired brick, its courtyards, and its circular stone-houses. Drive to Kawa (1.5 hr) . O/N camp in desert, tents.
Day 7 Kawa, Old Dongola.
Visit the Kawa sites- the Amon temple of Taharka and drive to Old Dongola (2.5 hr). Lunch enroute . In Old Dongola, we will see christian relics of Makoria Kingdom including the Throning Palace, the Column Church and the main palace . We also see the dooms of the Sufi holy men. These tombs of holy men from arab roots in Old Dongola called (Zyad family). The tombs have upper structure thats why called dooms. O/N camp in desert in Old Dongula outskirts .Day 8 Old Dongola-Karima-Kurru
Drive to Karima (2.5 hr) through the Nubian desert, famous in Sudan for dates, mangoes and citrate crops. The features in this desert are of moving sands and rocky hard relief (every where around). The rocky hills and huge boulders have been clearly ripped up into unique fascinating shapes by way of millenniums of blowing north-easterlies. Along the way we will see camel caravans especially as we enter Elzoma village. Lunch in a local restaurant in Karima market and transfer to a local house. In the afternoon visit the Royal cemetery in Elkuru where some of Napatan Kings such as PiankyTanutamany are located. Here is the only place where you can see the pyramids from inside with very clear paintings and inscriptions on two of the tombs. Also visit the Petrified Forest. O/N the local house in Karima near Jebel Barkal.Day 9 Karima, Jebel Barkal, Nuri, Ghazali, Bayoda Desert
In the morning climb Jebel Barkal, about a 20 min climb at comfortable pace; highest point 90 meters. Jebel is a massive sacred mountain known as the main Temple of Amun (Deity of Egyptians and Sudanese at the time.) It was acrved by nature in approx 1220 BC, that coincide with the period of the 19th Dynasty in Egypt. When seen from a distance, the huge granite mountain is shaped in the bust of the Deity Amun and the pinacle looks like the crown or acopra. At the foot of Jebel Barkal stands the Temple of Amun supported by massive granite pillars which are inscribed with heiroglyphics, animal figures and sphinx. Looking down from the mountain top, is a magnificent view of the Temple below. The sprawling Nile, green cultivated banks of date groves and other fruit trees complete the view to the east.Cross the Nile, lunch enroute. Standing high among clusters of rocks, the gorge over-looks a small traditionally built village of farmers and strips of vegetation along the bank of the Nile. Visit the pyramids of Nuri where King Taharka’s pyramid is located. Drive 30 min through Bayoda desert and visit the christian monastery site at El-Ghazali, one of the few relics still remaining of historical christian Sudan. Two hr drive to our camp in desert.
Day 10 Bayoda Desert, Atbra, Meroe Pyramid, Royal City
Drive through Bayoda desert (2.5 hr) to Um Toyoor village where we cross the Nile to Atbra (20 min). Lunch at restaurant in Atbra market. Afterwards continue to Dammer, an old town that has been the cradle to the tradition religious education for centuries prior to modern schooling. It is also one of the largest desert markets for camels and other desert livestock. We will see nomadic tribals, often in camel caravans, enroute. Visit the camel market, then drive to the sites of ancient Meroe (1 hr), ahead are the pyramids of Meroe (the necropolises), the amazing and biggest complex of pyramids on a sandy hill glittering like gold. We go for a sunset look at the pyramids. Walk to the camp below the southern pyramids . O/N camp in tents.
Day 11 Pyramids of Meroe Royal City of Meroe, Shendi, Mussawarat, Naga
Revisit the pyramids of Meroe, then a short drive (5 km) west of the pyramids, and a short distance off the Nile, lies the Metropolis of Meroe, the royal city that encloses the relics of the royal palace, royal baths and few temples. Scattered all over this area are filings and pieces of glazed black iron and iron ore. Ancient Meroe is reputed to have been the earliest center any where in Africa, where iron had been mined and refined.From here we head south to Shendi town (45 min). Shendi is the traditional center of the Jaaliyeen tribe, an influential Arabic-speaking group who feature prominently in the strife for supremacy on the main Nile in the recent history of Sudan. We visit the local market and a weaving house for traditional clothes.
Afterwards, drive to the next meroetic site, the Mussawarat Assufra (1 hr). It is situated in the center of an expansive rich valley, surrounded by black volcanic mountains, where remains of ancient quarries can still be seen. The great enclosure here is a labyrinth of numerous rectangular and square rooms and other different shapes of structure whose real purpose and function have been enigmatic until very recently. It has just been documented that it served as a religious center for pilgrims and used for religious festivals.
Drive about twenty minutes to Nagaa, an important Meroetic Archaeological site, where we visit the Amon temple, the Lion temple and the Meroitic Kiosk.
Amon temple, 15BC - 15AD: the plan of the temple is the same as all Amon temples consisting of the three halls and the ram path--there are13 statues of rams in very good condition making the ram path very clear, the pylons of the three gates of the halls are well preserved, the reliefs on them are good and illustrate the coronation party of the royal family, the king Netkamany and his wife queen Amani Tiree and their son the crown prince Shirakarir who was the governor of Naga and later the King of Meroe. Architecture is an Egyption style building with many reliefs of the Nile god Happy as it seemed it was worshiped there.Some five hundred meters to the east, stands a massive temple renovated recently keeping the original design and appearance. It is built of huge sand stone blocks, bearing the name the Lion Temple. The outside walls of this structure are beautifully inscribed with meteoric lithography.
An additionally important site at this spot is the age old well, where strong young men and women from the nomadic settlement are drawing water for their flocks. The Temple of Apadamek (the diety of the Meroeties) is shown colorfully decorated with symbols and figures on the walls of sand stone structures.
Meriotic Kiosk: Adjacent to the Temple of Apadamek is the Meriotic Kiosk (also called Roman Kiosk), which is architecturally typical of old Roman structures. It was presumably erected to serve as a rest house. O/N camp in tents in Naga.
Day 12 Six Cataract, Khartoum
In the morning, resume the visits of Naga temples, drive to the six cataract (1 hr 40 min), drop by a farm, then a one hour Nile ferry crossing the cataract. Lunch enroute. Drive 2 hours southwest across an open sand plain interspersed with valleys back to Khartoum. Farewell dinner in restaurant along the Nile. O/N Grand holiday villa hotel.Day 13 Khartoum
Morning visit National Museum. Independent afternoon until transfer to airport.Prices: $4065 per person based on min 5 people, single room supplement $365
Includes: visa processing fee* (approx $65); passport registration (approx $45); accomodation-five star in Khartoum, Nubian houses in Sai, Soleb, and Karima, tents elsewhere; accompanying escort, all meals, an accompanying chef who cooks at camps and Nubian houses, tea and coffee after meals in restaurants, site permits, photo permits, transport by ac luxury minibus for Khartoum (25 seats) and 4 wheel drive Toyota landcruser 2006 (seats four people comfortably); mineral water--as much as you want; oh, and free toilet paper given to each tour member at the start of the trip!
*this is in addition to the visa fee you will pay directly to Sudan Embassy; it is required to get the approval for your visa which we get for you; you will then apply for the visa on your own(highly sugest using a visa service.
Does Not Include: international flight, visa fees, airport departure tax ($20), soft drinks, tips, travel insurance, personal expenses such as laundry, phone calls, sleeping bag
Packing Suggestions: light summer clothing, a good pair of boots, insect repellant lotion, Malaria tablets
Notes: this itinerary should be used as an outline. While the destinations will remain the same, the day to day sequence might change to coordinate with any local events, road conditions and general pace and interests of our small group. We plan the tours a year in advance, but local activities schedules are often not available so far in advance or subject to change. Also, sometimes the most memorable events of a trip are the spontaneous experiences.
No western toilets or showers (bucket showers)outside Khartoum, you must bring sleeping bag or liner. Nubia houses, built from mud, are distinctive in their painting and decoration, clean and well designed. They have usually three rooms with verandas ( like open halls to get fresh air), one bathroom for shower- local style using cups/bucket, one toilet, in some houses two bathrooms , electricity. Rooms can fit three beds comfortably, some six beds. Some people like to sleep in open yard. Beds are local ones with mattreses and sheets, no blankets. Staying in a local house offers a chance to shower, charge batteries for cameras, a change from the atmosphere of camps, and most of all an opportunity to observe and interact with local people in authentic setting.
Visa requirements and application:
http://www.sudanembassy.org/default.asp?page=visarequirements
Click Here for Passport and Visa Service
(888) 367-6147 - Intl (415) 381-5861
P.O. Box 446 Mill Valley, CA 94941all text & photos © 1997-07, Barbara Sansone
